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Chicago Daily News,
Thursday, Oct. 21, 1976

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"The Wicked Cooks" serve up an allegory
by Richard Christiansen

Pary Production Company the young, enterprising group that has specialized in mounting local premieres of avant-garde drama with a strong poetic and literary bent, on Wednesday night offered its most elaborate presentation to date, the Chicago debut of Gunter Grass' "The Wicked Cooks.

The staging, which all but overloads the cramped upstairs auditorium of the Body Politic at 2259 N. Lincoln, makes use of complex lighting, puppets, filmed sequences, witty costumes, specially taped sound effects and some ingenious soft sculpture scenic elements (by Paul K. Basten).

FIRST PRODUCED in Berlin in 1962 (and performed here in an English translation from the German by James L. Rosenberg), "The Wicked Cooks" is a play to tax and audience's imagination and a theater's resources.

The first scene, for example, requires cooks to pop out of an egg, a pile of salt and a snowstorm after their leader has summoned them with a giant bugle.

To its great credit, the Pary show brings all this off with zest and imagination, rocketing Grass' allegory along with the dash of a cartoon epic.

THE PLAY'S philosophical and political references are many, but its basic action is straightforward and simple.

A band of cooks, "little men who want to be big," are in desperate search of a recipe for a soup they don't know how to make"

The possessor of this secret, they believe, is The Count, an aristocratic and civilized man who, though only an amateur chef, easily whips up the soup that is in such great demand by all who have tasted it.

The Count, finally hounded to death by the cooks, knows that the recipe cannot be written down in a formula for the cooks to absorb. It is "an experience, a way of life" that is beyond them.

BUT THE COOKS, slamming about in their white uniforms like a gang of Keystone Cops, do not realize this. Jockeying for power within their own ranks and battling against competing battalions of cooks, elusive secret.

One small, nervous member of the group, Vasco (the explorer) has some family and religious ties in his background. An uneasy recruit to their organization, he had yearnings for romantic love and marital bliss.

It is Vasco who may be the inheritor of the secret recipe and it is he the rest of the cooks are pursuing ass the play ends.

A POLITICAL activist, as well as artist and poet, Grass filled his play with references to the history of Germany in the 20th Century. Many of the less obvious points are going to be lost here, but the essential image -- that of a gang of barbarians trying to acquire the secret of a good life -- comes through clearly.

This is an extremely demanding show, and, working with a small budget, director Larry Hart and his players have managed amazingly well in bringing out both the horror and the hilarity of the story.

The cooks themselves, perfectly costumed (by Pat Hart) and made up, are played with expert looniness by Ray Nelson, Adrian White, Ed Douglas, Gary Houston and Robert Strom.

Houston, looking like an adult version of one of the Campbell soup kids, and Strom, as the unhappy Vasco, are especially impressive.

Allowing for the theater's physical limitations -- and the discomfort of its hard, squeezed-together folding chairs -- venturesome audiences will want to try this bizarre and off-beat brew.

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